Bangkok : The Bhuthorn Bed & Breakfast

15th - 16th December 2010. Written by Xin Li. Bangkok, Thailand It has been months after my stay at this quaint little gem in Bangkok and I am already missing it. This treasure is an elegant little Bed & Breakfast called the The Bhuthorn. It is the brain child of two passionate architects, Direk and Chitlada Senghluang who painstakingly and faithfully restored the shop house and turned it into a cozy and homely guesthouse.

The original shop house was the result of King Chualongkorn’s fascination with the shophouses in Singapore and Batavia during his overseas trips to the aforementioned cities in the 19th century. Hence, the King and his architects took the original blueprints of Singapore’s shop houses and attempted to implement it in Bangkok.

It caught on with much frenzy and today the city itself has developed a unique style of shop houses over the centuries that are distinct from its Malaysian and Singaporean counterparts. The Bhuthorn is one of the earliest variant of these shop houses.

Instead of tearing down the original structure and leaving the façade, the architects preserved its original load-bearing structure as well as some of the original paintwork such as the faded turquoise paints on ceiling which adds a kind of authentic historical charm to the place.

The architects’ hard work paid off when The Association of Siamese Architects under the Royal Patronage recognized the building as a Well-Preserved Building for the year 2010.

Upon entering arriving at the guesthouse surrounded by lush greens, we were being welcomed amicably by the Khun Direk and Khun Chitlada as well as the guesthouse staff before being led to the reception area.

It was a beautiful lobby area decorated with antiques such as a podium from Burma was from the owner’s personal collection.

Glasses of refreshing Chilled Lemongrass Juice were being served, a much welcomed drink in the as the weather was swelteringly hot.

Our personal preferences for breakfast was then taken down and the owner as well as the staff provided us printed guides on the neighborhood as well as some common phrases we could use to direct a taxi driver. The service was impeccable throughout our stay.

One of the owners, Khun Chitlada was very approachable and helpful, she is always there concierge services and she also keen to offer a tour of the old neighbourhood.

Complimentary drinks were being served upon request, YY and I had one of the best cha-yen (Thai Iced Milk Tea) thus far, sweet concoction made from coconut milk, black tea and condensed milk. It made me an instant fan of the Thai Iced Milk Tea back in Singapore.

Like the lobby, the guesthouse and our room, the Salpasart Room was decorated with numerous antiques, ornaments, trinkets as well as the famed Jim Thompson fabrics. It felt like we were being transported back to the Colonial Era, the ambience was comparable with our own Fairmont Raffles Hotel.

There were only 3 rooms in the Bhuthorn, each of them named after a royal prince in the 19th century which the surrounding roads got their name from. Salpasart is named after Prince Salpasartsupphakit. The bed was firm and comfortable and tastefully decorated. Despite its small floor area (about 18sqm), the room felt amazingly spacious thanks to the tall ceiling. Free wifi as well as a USB compatible television was provided.

There is a library on the upper floors with a plethora of books on Thailand and Indo-China.

In the morning, I had one of my most memorable breakfasts ever. Despite the simple fare (you could opt for more food such as Thai Porridge), the experience of having breakfast in the courtyard surrounded by greenery was very relaxing and soothing.

I hope I could spend more time and savor my warm, crusty, fluffy Croissants

or Fresh Green Salad with Caesar Dressing

and sip on an aromatic cup of Latte.

It was a pleasant experience in which one hope time would slow down.

Tropical fruits were being served as well.

Unfortunately, we got an early flight to catch, our brief entry to Nirvana comes to an end as we bade farewell to the wonderful people at the Bhuthorn and the paradise it has to offer.

The Bhuthorn may not have Jacuzzi, saunas, swimming pools, buffet breakfasts or premium lounges, but compared to the hotels or guesthouses I had stayed in the past, the Bhuthorn was unsurpassed in terms of the humane and excellent service and the break from the hustle and bustle of everyday life that it delivered.

Depending on your itinerary, the location could be a blessing for those who wish to visit Wat Pho, Wat Arun, the Grand Palace, Chinatown, Khao San and the Giant Swing conveniently as these are just a stone’s throw away, making it an ideal base to explore the nearby attractions or the laid back neighborhood.

However, the guesthouse is not located near any BTS or train stations, therefore inconvenient for people hoping to get to Siam Paragon or Jim Thompson House conveniently. Hence, the easiest way to get to it is by taxi (about 400 THB from Suvarnabhumi Airport, 200 THB from Phaya Thai Station, 50 THB to Sala Daeng Area, 100 THB to Oriental Pier).

Besides location, mosquitoes could be a source of annoyance so make sure you keep the doors and windows shut at night and your insect repellent would come in handy.

The Salpasart Room cost 3600 THB for one night in the peak seasons and 3200 THB during the low seasons. While there are hotels with better facilities or cheaper prices, we felt that our stay was all worth it. It is an experience that should not be missed.

The couple has just set up a sister B&B called the Asadang which is modeled after the Bhuthorn with more rooms and space.

Last but not least, thank you Khun Direk, Khun Chitlada and the staff of the Bhuthorn for wonderful and enjoyable stay. The Bhuthorn 96-98 Phraeng Bhuthorn Rd, San Chao Phor Seua, Phra Nakhom Bangkok 10200