Cheese Tom Yum : Thai Cuisine Re-invented

23rd February 2011. Written by Xin Li.
Bangkok, Thailand.
The dining experience was an experience of déjà vu. The flavours were unmistakably Thai but the presentation and ingredients are European inspired. At La Table de Tee, get ready to taste the Thai Cuisine in a different perspective.

Helmed by the Chef Tee Kachorklin, a young Thai chef who has worked in the kitchen of Roussillon in London for 6 years and the have been the sous chef of its sister restaurant Priory Bay Hotel on the Isle of Wight. The story of Chef Tee is something the working man can relate to, a tale of hard work and passion.

The young chef started La Table de Tee when he was just 25 years old and attempted to offer a personal and subtle interpretation of local ingredients with classic French and Thai cooking techniques.

I found La Table de Tee via Trip Advisor and after reading the reviews and restaurant’s mission, I decided to pay the dinner-only restaurant located in the Sala Daeng are of Bangkok a visit. I was the only Asian diner that night, a table of Francophone Caucasians sat next to mine and a an American couple was behind me.

The tiny restaurant was a dimly lit and classy with a contemporary touch.

After taking my orders, bread was being served with butter. It was rather chewy and fragrant.

The first course was Pumpkin & Thai Lemon Basil Soup – Light Pumpkin and Thai Lemon Basil Soup served with Parmesan Cheese and Brussels Sprout Royale. The soup was excellent, hearty without being too heavy on the palate and it tasted slightly spicy and sour. The center piece is a creamy cheesy substance encrusted with parmesan cheese. The chef makes use of the sourness of cheese to recreate the flavors of the Thai Tom Yum, simply brilliant.

The second course was a Seafood Open Ravioli & Coriander – Sauteed Mixed Seafood with Prawn Sauce and Coriander Roots Sauce Served with Green Salad, Confit Tomatoes, Onion Tempura Prawn Heads and Coriander. The Thai accents in this dish probably come from the ingredients. The presentation is strikingly European though. The dish did not fare well as it has too many things going on.

The next course is the Norwegian Salmon & Sweet Basil – Pan Fried Cut of Salmon Filet with Chopped Basil Served with Thai Green Vegetable (Snake Gourd), Tamarind and Sweet Basil Curry Sauce. This pretty looking dish was rather delectable. I love how the succulent salmon flesh goes well with the crunchy Thai vegetables. The dish reminds me of Food for Thought’s Chai Salmon.

Duck & Cinnamon – Pan Roasted Duck Breast with Spices Served with Cooked Baby Carrot, Fricassee Salad, Duck and Cinnamon Sauce, was the fourth course. The cinnamon flavor is rather subtle. It was a decent dish at most.

For Desserts, I had the Chocolate Louis – Soft Chocolate Mousse, Crunchy Hazelnuts and Praline with Dark Chocolate Sauce and the Peanut Macaroon and Fruits Jelly.

The Chocolate Louis was ambrosial. All the different layers of chocolate and flavors disintegrate harmoniously with a nutty tone as you savor it bit by bit. A fine chocolate dessert.

The Peanut Macaroon was okay. The Fruits Jelly was just acerbic. It was way too sour for my liking.

The whole meal cost 900 THB per person and you have at least 2 choices for the two main courses and one of the desserts. There were hits and misses but it is interesting to experience Chef Tee’s re-interpretation of his native cuisine with French cooking techniques. The soup for example is something worth trying. The service was not intrusive and quite good.

La Table de Tee

Address
69/5 Saladaeng Road
Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500

Opening Times
Tuesday - Sunday
6.30pm-10.30pm

Contact DetailsT: +66 2 636 3220
E: info@latabledetee.com