Portico | A Sinful Lunch

31st October 2015

Portico never fails to amaze me for their restaurant week meals. A lot of thought and creativity seemed to be put into how the dishes are done and presented. It is no surprise I was back again for this Restaurant Week. However, now that they are a star restaurant, the prices have gone up significantly but will it be worth it?

Portico’s Restaurant Week menu is inspired by the Seven Deadly Sins, perhaps in time for the Halloween period. Lunch is a trio of sins. Namely : Sloth, Greed and Wrath.

Sloth | Great.

“Yawn, a slow lazy start; forget the cutlery.”

Chilled Mint and Asparagus Soup, Bacon Rashers, Candied Lemon Peel with Yuzu. It resembles something like a chilled broth of Thunder Tea Rice but this is something more complex despite its name. The dish grows on you as more subtle flavours begin to come through such as the sweet and sourness from the candied lemon peel and the yuzu. The bits of bacon as well as crunchy asparagus gave the dish a variation of texture which made it more enjoyable.

Greed | Excellent.

“Hey, hands off… it’s all mine.”

Pan-Seared Golden Snapper, Sous Vide Abalone, Puffed Sea Cucumber, Saffron and Tumeric Risotto, Golden Beetroot. This is really good, the fish is just right, with very crispy skin and a succulent flesh, the saffron and turmeric risotto was brilliant as well, so rich and flavourful. This dish epitomizes the opulence of greed with in both flavours and aesthetics. It could have been the monetary and done–to-death expression of greed with truffles, foie gras, caviar that kind of premium ingredients but I am glad Portico took a respected approach using the attributes and understanding of food to express it instead.

Wrath | Excellent finish.

“Enough, fire me up!”

Deconstructed Orange Ginger Crème Brulee, Crispy Filo, Chili Macaerated Jambosier, Bamboo Ash Crumbs. I thought the choice of a crème brulee is really good to express wrath because you have to exert some force to crack the caramelized sugar over the cream and this is paired with the smoky flavours from the bamboo ash crumbs and spiciness from the jambosier. They could have done a literal and unexciting lava cake or a flambéed dessert but you get this deceptively unassuming crème brulee with elements of heat hidden within. It was a good ending.

Can’t wait to go back again for their next Restaurant Week menu, too bad I missed their SG50 menu. The service here is quite good too and not uptight or snobbish. 

The nearest MRT Station is Labrador Station on the Circle Line.

Portico

 #01-10, 991B Alexandra Road

Singapore 119970